The exhibition 'Gizdava nit' (The Posh Thread) opened at the Bosniak Institute in Sarajevo on December 19, 2013. The exhibition displays the Ethnology Collection of the Bosniak Institute - Adil Zulfikarpasic Foundation and will run through January 2014.

image Silver belt from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

The Ethnology Collection of the Bosniak Institute - Adil Zulfikarpasic Foundation is significant as it shows the lifestyle of the Bosnian elite from the 19th century. They were the influential families that piloted the changes, introduced innovations and embraced the fashion trends in clothing and home furnishings. The author of the exhibition is Lebiba Dzeko, who also wrote the texts for the catalogue.

The exhibition presents extraordinary examples of garments such as dresses, vests, veils, waistcoats, belts, etc., true testimonies of 19th century handicraft production.

The significance of this collection lies also in the fact that it contains items that belonged to famous and important people from the Bosnian past, so it includes items from the legacy of Safvet bey Basagic, Adham Mulabdic, Semsudin Bey Gradascevic, and ones that belonged to well-known families such as Cengic, Mesic, Filipovic, Hodzic, etc.

Among the most luxurious garments worn in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the anterija, a long dress with open front and cut out at the chest and sides, with very long sleeves. These dresses were made from different types of materials, depending on the needs and financial situation of the person who ordered them. They were handcrafted by master tailors. An example of such a dress was created in 1875 for Azemina Filipovic, the wife of Hamdi Bey Filipovic from Glamoc.

image Anterija, (dress), 1875, created for Azemina Filipovic, the wife of Hamdi Bey Filipovic from Glamoc. The dress was created for one year by a master tailor. / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

The Collection consists also of the jewelry made by local silversmiths who specialized in filigree combined with precious stones. The jewelry belts were worn with dresses and often made from the same fabric with a bow shaped buckle. Interesting headscarves, towels, curtains and men's belts are also an integral part of the collection, as Bosnian women are well known for their exquisite embroidery and woven artifacts.

Jewelry

image Silver bracelet, The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Pafta (the decorative belt clip), silver. The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Pafta (the decorative belt clip), silver. The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Pafta (the decorative belt clip), The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

Garments

image Anterija, (dress), detail 1875 / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Two dresses (anterija). The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Detail from one of the dresses showing a belt with pafta (the decorative belt clip). The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Detail from one of the dresses.The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Detail from one of the dresses.The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Left: Feredža (The veil). Bosnian women would wear it when going out of their home. Right: Male garment: waistcoat, shirt and pants. The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Feredža (veil), detail. The Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Male waistcoat from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Vest from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image From the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

Embroidery

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection, detail / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine

image Embroidery from the Ethnology Collection / © Photo: Islamic Arts Magazine


Comments
  • graceandrew
    Aug 16, 2017 - 13:59:15

    A very informative and eye catching article. I will refer your article to all my friends.

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